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Reporting by Chance Townsend, Caitlin Welsh, Sam Haysom, Amanda Yeo, Shannon Connellan, Cecily Mauran, Mike Pearl, and Adam Rosenberg contributed to this article.

This was especially vexing to physician and bacteriologist Robert Koch, who, in seeking to culture his bacteria, “bent all his power to attain the desired result by a simple and consistently successful method,” wrote bacteriologist and historian William Bulloch in his 1938 book, The History of Bacteriology. “He attempted to obtain a good medium which was at once sterile, transparent, and solid” and got some results with gelatine.6 But gelatine is easily digested by many microbes and melts at precisely the temperatures at which the disease-causing microbes Koch wanted to study grow best.

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